European Travel Blog » Central Europe

Prague – Story: Platypus wrecks

admin — Wed, 25 Mar 2009 16:50:39 +0000

The absinthe burned my throat on the way down. Breathing in through my nose I contemplated how it was getting easier every time and when I felt it was safe I let out a high pitched roar. It was 11.30pm and there was me and Scooby and Corco and Masterson-Nolan and we were in our flat in Prague performing our nightly ritual before making our way into the Old Town. I was wearing a tie, sandals, shorts, a shirt I had won in a Malibu promotion, and an apron, which was funny because I don’t usually wear ties, and we were out to have fun because, after all, fun and Love are what life is all about.

We walked down through Letinsky Park and across Stefanov Most and were heading towards the Square when Corco noticed that a bar, called Snack Bar, which wasn’t usually open this late was indeed open. Feeling there was no other option we called in for a quick shot. To get us going, like.

The first thing that struck me about the place was how empty it was, in that it was completely empty. The second was the size of the whiskey glasses the lone barman placed in front of us. Had I been fully sober the first thing I would have noticed was that the lone barman was out of his biscuit tin. Gone a bit sideways. Out of his trumpet. Needing a bit of a shake. He had, to put it mildly, had a bit to drink.

The whiskey glasses were refilled with Becherovka as quickly as we could drain them, and it soon became clear that the bill was not an object. Which was fortunate, considering that if you were counting the shots poured into each glass each time it was unlikely we had enough on us to match the tab.

Now we were drunk, and we were talking away at the barman although he hadn’t a word of English.

“Cesky?”, asked Masterson-Nolan, inquiring as to whether he spoke Czech. He misunderstood, thinking we were asking his nationality, and he shook his head vehemently.
“Serbska!” he declared, sticking his chest out proudly.
“Milosevic”, cried Scooby. Worried I was for a moment when I thought that he might not want Slobadon’s name shouted with such acclaim, but the man couldn’t have been more on Scooby’s wavelength and he never thought past Savo. The universal language of Football. We continued to shout players’ names across the bar at him for a few minutes, most of whom probably weren’t Serbian at all, but he echoed our shouts with added bravado and glided around behind the bar refilling our glasses.

Now we were locked, and the barman reached across and grabbed Scooby’s Man Utd. jersey. I misunderstood, and took off my shirt. He looked at me curiously for a few seconds and then followed suit, releasing his belly and huge man breasts. This really got us going and we were up on our stools pointing our fingers and singing “Who eat all the pies” at him. He was dancing around the place lapping up every profanity we could think of. He waved his hands quickly and diagonally in front of his flabby chest: “Ziggy Zaggy”, he roared. “Ziggy Zaggy” we roared, and we all imitated his curious gesture badly.

Now we were ossified, and recollection becomes all blurry. Certain memories, distinct moments, stand out clearly. Outside for some fresh air after a shot went down wrong with Masterson-Nolan. “This”, I said to him, “this is the weirdest yet”, because some weird things had happened to us in ten and a half weeks, and we jumped up and down hugging for three hundred and sixty degrees and went back inside. Seeing Corco behind the bar. Serbian traditional music. Seeing a new face sitting at the end of the bar and wondering when he had come in. Me being behind the bar and pulling myself a pint. Going through his CD collection. Finding a Ricky Martin album, and passing it around and laughing. Breaking his Ricky Martin album in front of his face…

Snap went the plastic case and snap went the laughing expression on Ziggy’s face and snap returns my memory nice and clear. His new expression scared me sober. I looked around and my brain worked surprisingly fast as it evaluated my situation and didn’t like what it found. Corco was sitting at the bar staring at his feet after obviously having a few whiskey glasses more than was good for him. Scooby was standing staring at the wall, probably in the middle of an acid flashback induced by the copious amounts of grass we had smoked earlier in the day. Masterson-Nolan was nowhere to be seen. Ziggy was aiming a punch.

I was never renowned for my chin and collapsed like a ton of feathers under his first blow. The sixth man was obviously a friend of Ziggy’s and he copped what was happening quick and Corco had raised his head from his daze just in time to see a stool heading for his face. He hit the ground before his blood and he wasn’t getting up any time soon. Ziggy had lost his balance himself after his exertion and it was me and him in a race to regain our footing. The sixth man was lining up Scooby with his stool but was interrupted by the timely arrival of the Policie, in the form of a nineteen year old cop with a baton and a gun that made a bar stool look very small. He exchanged words in Czech with the sixth man.

After almost three months in Prague I had heard enough stories about the Czech police to fear that we weren’t out of the woods just yet. Scooby was looking around him but all he was seeing was snakes and swinging monkeys and a man with a huge platypus growing out of his left arm. I wasn’t happy to see the cop laugh at a crack made by the sixth man and enjoyed even less seeing him prepare to skull Corco with the huge baton in his left arm. He brought it down with his full weight behind it and Corco was lucky to get his arm up in time to deflect the blow with his elbow, resulting in a sound that was painful for me to hear…

Snap went Corco’s arm and snap went the realisation inside Scooby’s head that something terrible was happening and snap went Scooby. He pure panicked and began launching the liquor bottles lined up beside him in all directions, screaming horribly as he went. He was soon joined in his screams by the sixth man and the cop who were both caught square with flying bottles. Ziggy went to stop him and slipped and cracked his head against the bar. Masterson-Nolan arrived back from his wanderings and he grabbed Corco and I grabbed Scooby and we made as fast an exit as we possibly could.

But we had to go anyway, I’d left the chocolate spread in the fridge.

Prague – Living Like Royalty

admin — Mon, 29 Sep 2008 22:41:36 +0000

There are places and situations in life that make you feel like you’re part of a large monochrome puzzle all made of the same material. A place where you can feel utter harmony, utter peace. Finding those places in the world is rare, but definitely possible. In Prague, the Czech Republics old, bohemian capital, I felt that peace. In Prague, you can smell, see and feel that peace.
According to legend, Princess Libuse stood above Czech Republics Vltava river in the ninth century and declared, "I see a city whose glory will touch the stars; it shall be called Praha (meaning threshold)." Kings, architects and benefactors fulfilled the prophecy.
I haven’t yet found such a place as Prague. The city has a unique, enchanting ambiance that is made present through the gothic churches and the Baroque and art-nouveau architecture. Prague is a fairy-tale. The city’s buildings bear unusual colours such as deep pinks, yellows and greens. Those colourful blocks are accented with something that looks like icing on cake – swirls and roses and tiny pieces made of stone or cement. The area itself is very quiet and tranquil, which adds to the magical atmosphere.
I stayed at a hostel called The Clown and Bard, a hippie-style congregation centre for worldly backpackers. The administration stuck me on the sixth floor (without an elevator, mind you) in a large room with 39 other people in it. Thirty nine. That’s like a whole football team. The largest dorm I ever stayed in was a 16-person room in London. This situation could have been a disaster with the wrong atmosphere, yet I was in Prague, and everyone was open and full of love for each other. It was the time of my life. I felt like I was in a large orphanage for unadoptable world youth. We were too old to be adopted, so we wandered the earth in search of others like us. In situations like that, it is impossible not to make friends. I didn’t only make friends, I made a family for four days. Half of us dorm orphans went out to dinner together every night. We sat around the table conversing United Nations-style about various cultural topics. Australia, England, Ireland, America, Spain, Norway, Canada and Poland were all present at the meeting with England having the strongest representation.
When visiting Prague, be prepared to live like royalty. Everything is so cheap that the Canadian dollar will stretch a long way. A rich, full course meal will cost around five Canadian dollars. Beer is cheaper than bottled water at 50 cents per a half liter glass. With food and drink flowing in abundance, us dorm orphans felt like the children of Eden.
Yet the Czech Republic has an alcoholic drink that would never be found in Eden. The country has a bizarre love affair with a nearly poisonous liquid called Absinthe. This turquoise potion is 160 proof at its strongest, was rumored to be opium laced and linked with hallucinations. It is illegal in all but three countries, yet the crazy Czechs still drink it like milk. Many may wonder if that’s the reason for the relaxed, enchanted atmosphere.
I knew the reason for the hippie-style love was more than absinthe. The enchanting atmosphere was deeper than the detailed or ancient architecture. Prague had a magical force that lingered around through the dark alleyways and between the cracks of the cobblestone streets. It was very present in the mist at dawn and during the sunset at night. It was bizarre, and it made me wonder if the legend of Princess Libuses magic spell was really a legend and not actual truth. Prague will enchant any traveler, no mater the age of the person or the outlook on life they have. How hard it will enchant you is questionable. As a young backpacker, I left the city deeply moved. I think the stardust will linger in my system for a long time.

Stockholm, Sweden Events

admin — Fri, 23 May 2008 13:43:10 +0000

Events include Midsummer; the Lucia festival in December, (it commemorates the martyrdom of a pious Sicilian Girl), parades, plenty of glögg , (an alcoholic fruit punch), for adults, and singing. Christmas trees are decorated, cooking and baking begins and Santa delivers presents in person to each child. Ham is the major Christmas fare, complete with the tradition of "dipping in the pot," when slices of bread are soaked in ham juices. New Year’s Eve is widely celebrated and fireworks play a big part in the celebration.

Easter in Sweden incorporates the pagan belief that witches hang out and Walpurgis Night in April is a pagan festival celebrating winter’s end with bonfires and fireworks. May Day is observed by marches, parades and labor movement events. Sweden’s National Day is held in June. The King and Queen traditionally visit Skansen, the world’s oldest open-air museum. They raise the Swedish flag and honor chosen volunteers with a gift of their own flag. Tel. 46/8/442 80 00.

Stockholm, Sweden Getting There & Getting Around

admin — Fri, 23 May 2008 08:39:47 +0000

Getting There & Getting Around

SAS & Finnair fly regular flights into Arlanda, the main international airport. There are Avis, Budget and Hertz offices at Arlanda Airport.

Daily domestic flights crisscross the country but an extensive and efficient bus and train system give you the benefit of seeing the country as you travel. Swedish roads are excellent; you do need to be on constant lookout for moose, reindeer and elk. A regular driver’s license is all you need to drive but, to rent a car, you must have an international driver’s license. Motorways are not open to cyclists but there are beautiful, scenic routes especially for cyclists. Buses and trains connect up with ferries to provide services around the country, to Denmark, Finland, Norway, Germany, Poland, Estonia and the UK. Central Station, 6-14 Vasagatan, phone 762 20 00
Some operators of cruises and water tours include Stromma Kanalbolaget, phone 23 33 75, Waxholmsbolaget, 789 24 15, and Charterforfragningar, 679 59 60. Blidosund, an early 19th century steamboat, offers island cruises (11 71 13).

Women should ask for discounts in Stockholm and Goteborg taxis from 10pm until 6am , usually 20% off the regular fare.

Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s “old town”

admin — Fri, 23 May 2008 05:35:21 +0000

Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s "old town," had its start in the 13th century. The medieval streets are a fascinating study of lanes, arches and stairways. It contains the present Royal Palace, completed in 1760. The original Royal Palace was burned down in the 17th century. The apartments and armory offer authentic looks into the past. Along the cobblestones of Vasterlanggatan, you’ll find shops with rare souvenirs, crafts and art.

Restaurants in Stockholm offer anything you want to eat. An unforgettable fish meal can be had at Lisa Elmquist, Ostermalm Square, 31 Nybrogatan, phone 46/8/660 92 32. Located in the produce market area, the restaurant serves lunch and dinner right next to the fresh fish counters. A favorite is the Sandwich Skagen, featuring a mixture of shrimp, roe and freshly made mayonnaise; tender filets that were swimming freely around in the Baltic just hours earlier make truly the freshest seafood meals you’ll ever enjoy. Salmon and salmon trout are fresh and delicious. Major cards accepted.

Some other notable Stockholm eateries:

Broderna Olsson — owned by two brothers named Olsson! — offers provincial cooking in a relaxed atmosphere. Garlic lovers will love every dish on the menu. The pickled herring is amazing. 84 Folkungagatan, tel. 46/8/640 84 46. Major cards accepted.

Le Bistro de Wasahof is a low-key, neighborhood spot offering traditional food in a pub atmosphere. A local hangout for writers, artists and students. Major cards accepted. Don’t miss this delightful place. 46 Dalagatan, tel. 46/8/32 34 40.

Get dressed up and go enjoy true Swedish cooking at Nils Emil, in a setting of antique ship models and paintings by Swedish artists. It’s cozy, lively and everyone gets the royal treatment. A bit pricey but worth it. Major credit cards. 122 Folkungagatan, tel. 46/8/640 72 09.

If shopping’s your game, Stockholm’s best buys are woolen mittens, reindeer gloves, colorful Lappland coats and sweaters; visit downtown department stores and small boutiques in Old Town. There are shops to purchase fine Orrefors and Kista Boda crystal and sleek Scandinavian furniture and, of course, there is IKEA.

Stockholm Islands

admin — Fri, 23 May 2008 01:32:40 +0000

To grasp the full character of Stockholm, island hop. Stockholm sprawls across 14 islands; each inhabited island is unique and interesting. One must-see is the Marionettmuseet (International Puppet Theatre Museum) which has puppets, masks and monsters from around the world. Tel. 46/8/10 30 61. Stockholm’s Leksaksmuseet (Toy Museum) has a playroom to entertain the kids while you nose around a fascinating collection of nostalgic and international toys, including Mickey Mouse toys from the early 20th century. A cafe offers snacks. Tel. 46/8/641 61 00.

Sergels Torg, a central square located in Norrmalm, serves as the hop-off point for modern Stockholm. On Helgeans Holmen, the tiny island immediately south of Norrmalm, sits the Riksdagshser (Parliament Building) followed by the medieval Gamla Stan (Old Town) island and then the large Sodermaim, a bohemian enclave in a former blue-collar quarter. Across the Strommen lie the two scenic islands of Skeppsholmen and Kastell-Holmen. Farther east, Jurgaden Island houses a number of city museums and connects to the northern Ostermalm, a pricey residential neighborhood that adjoins Norrmalm. A stunning combination of man-made gardens, medieval castles, high rise buildings and natural scenery guarantee you’ll be fascinated at every step.

U.S. citizens don’t need a visa for up to a 90-days in the land of the Nobel Prize, ABBA, Greta Garbo, Absolut Vodka, the Volvo, IKEA and the smorgasbord. (Visitors from other countries should check requirements, however.) Higher prices are offset by fresh air, incredible landscapes, mountains and national parks, endangered bird and seal reserves, botanical gardens, over 40 species of orchids and extensive cultural delights in the over 450,000 sq. km., (170,000 sq mi) area. Skating, downhill and cross country skiing and winter sports dominate the winter; canoeing on calm lakes or conquering river rapids, hiking, camping, swimming and diving for sunken treasure in old wrecks and camera safari for scenery and abundant wildlife are summertime pleasures.

Stockholm, Sweden Travel

admin — Thu, 22 May 2008 19:32:33 +0000

The Kingdom of Sweden has an impressive 5,000 year history, and Stockholm is the very progressive city where it begins. Now with a population over a million people, medieval Stockholm grew along the Baltic Sea, where an archipelago of some 24,000 islands, skerries and rock protrusions have protected it from the open sea, creating a natural destination for trade and maritime activities.

Most of the land masses are uninhabited but summertime boating causes traffic jams, while ice rules the wintertime. A good view of the city comes best from the water and there are many points of interest you’ll want to see on foot.

Start your trip by acquiring discount tourist passes. The exchange rate of the Swedish Krona is about US$1 – Skr68. A 24-hour unlimited travel pass for subway, bus, local trains and ferry to Djurgarden is Skr60. A three-day ticket is Skr115 and includes admission to Kaknastornet and Grona Lund.

The Stockholm Card, (Stockholmskortet), is a personal discount card allowing unlimited travel on buses, subway and local trains and includes free admission to more than 50 sights and museums and well as bus and boat tour discounts. Cards for one, two, three and four days are available at Skr175 per 24 hours. These tickets and cards are sold at Sweden House, the Centralstation and Pressbyran newsstands. They’re worth the time it takes to purchase them.

Cologne Cathedral Germany

admin — Wed, 21 May 2008 11:13:19 +0000

"Cologne, or Köln, is 43 miles by rail from Aix-la-Chapelle. This famous city was originally the chief town of the ancient Ubii, the Oppidum Ubiorum of Tacitus; but it became known as Colonia Agrippina from A. D 51, when Agrippina, who was born here while her father Germanicus held command in the district, induced her husband Claudius to send a colony of veteran soldiers to the place. It afterwards became the chief town of Germania Secunda or Inferior. The Roman remains consist of what is called the Pfaffenport, supposed to be the old Porta Claudia, and some fragments of the walls. Many statues, sarcophagi, mosaic pavements, etc., have been found in and about the city.

The Cathedral is the glory of the modern city, and when completed will be the grandest Gothic church in the world. It was begun in 1248, but the work went on slowly, and the choir was not consecrated until 1322. Little more was accomplished after that date, and nothing from the be ginping of the 16th century until our own day. In 1795 the French used the building as a hay magazine, and stole the lead from the roof. In 1816 its restoratlon was begun under the auspices of the King of Prussia, and since then more than £400,000 (or two millions of dollars) has been expended upon it. The entire structure is now completed with the exception of the towers, which are to be more than 500 feet high. The interior, according to Baedeker, is 448 feet long and 49 broad, or 249′ through the transepts; and the choir is 49 feet high. The magnificent south portal (234 feet high), finished in 1859, cost £105,000, or more than half a million dollars. The stained glass in the windows of the north aisle (1508-9) is much admired. It may be compared with the Munich glass in the south aisle, presented by Louis of Bavaria in 1848.

In the choir the carved stalls and the statues on the pedestals attached to the pillars are of the 14th century. The Chapel of the Three Kings contains a gorgeous shrine of the latter part of the 12th century, enclosing the bones of the Magi, brought by the Empress Helena from Constantinople to Milan, and afterwards transferred by Frederick Barbarossa to Cologne. A fee is charged for showing this shrine and the treasury, which contains a silver shrine and other costly relics. There is a separate fee for admission to the choir and choir chapels (open without charge at certain hours); also for the choir gallery, the outer gallery, and central tower. These last should be visited for the views of the interior of the church, and of the city and the surrounding country, which they afford. ¤ "

The article above continues our occasional excerpts from "A Satchel Guide to Europe", a book published in Boston in 1880 for the benefit of aristocratic Americans embarking on the Grand Tour. As always with these excerpts, remember that the writer’s words of advice were written over a century ago, and one or two things may have changed!

The Cathedral, however, today completed (and restored from the brutal damage of two wars since the Satchel Guide writer viewed it), is still quite magnificent. The Cathedral is almost immediately adjacent to the main rail station; if your rail plans take you through Cologne, as many routes do, check the schedules to see if you can stop over for an hour or so. It’s worth it.

Bus Tour in Heidelberg

admin — Tue, 20 May 2008 22:00:25 +0000

A bus tour is always a good way to be introduced to a new city, and the daily Heidelberg City Bus Tour is attractive and efficient. Should you prefer to be on your own, public transport around Heidelberg is not difficult, even if your German isn’t quite up to the mark. Taxis are plentiful, and the trolley and bus lines very reliable. In the center of town is Der Bahnhof, the train station.

Directly in front of it is a most helpful tourist information center, which will provide the visitor with maps and explicit directions to almost anywhere in or outside of the city. The trolley and bus lines abet Der Bahnhof; vehicle operators are cordial and helpful, even if you pronounce "strudel" as though it’s a native California idiom.

Speaking of strudel, what is Heidelberg without–its strudels and noodles, and all kinds of delightful dining? A bit price-y, and you may put on pounds — but don’t leave the region without sampling the sauerbraten, or the hare or venison, served with delicious small dumplings and red cabbage. Wild boar can often be found on menus. The Jaeger Schnitzel(hunter’s veal) is famous and delicious. Such specialties often are at their tastiest in restaurants in the suburbs, or small towns on the outskirts of the city. Easily reachable by bus are Bruhl, Mannheim, Rohrbach, Ladenburg(where you can cook your own steak), or Speyer, which latter town also is the site of a beautiful 12th century cathedral, the largest remaining structure in Germany of the Romanesque period.

Other interesting southern German cities within a morning’s drive from Heidelberg along the Autobahn include Frankfurt, Stuttgart, Rothenberg, Nuremberg, and Munich, each with unique historical presence. The birthplace of the great German poet Goethe, Frankfurt is today a major city of industry and banking, and a transportation center. Nuremberg, besides being the home of the infamous Nazi war crimes trials, is the birthplace of the painter Albrecht Durer. Stuttgart is a gateway to the rich resort areas of the Black Forest, as well as a publishing and an automotive center. Munich, the capital of Bavaria, is a treasure chest of art and history, with many fine museums.

A word on local fun: if you go into a bar, and the bartender asks you to show "one pfennig" (a penny) and you don’t have one, you must buy a round of drinks.

Heidelberg – One of the loveliest city in the world

admin — Mon, 19 May 2008 22:00:20 +0000

From Goethe to Mark Twain, Artists Have Loved It

Oh, to be in Heidelberg, now that April’s here!

One of the loveliest cities of Europe, the great German university city of Heidelberg stretches along both sides of the wide Neckar River, a tributary of the Rhine. Pleasure boats thread a leisurely path along the river, enticing strollers and bikers to the shoreline the better to wave to passengers on the boat decks. The boats pass under the twin-towered Carl Theodor Bridge, one of the most beautiful bridges in the world. Completed in the 18th century, of stone, it has survived where eight of its predecessors constructed of wood had been destroyed by fire, ice or floods since 1310. Close by the Bridge are the Hirschgasse, the traditional dueling site, and the wonderful walkway along the river known as Philosophers’ Way.

Stepping along that path, you look high overhead. Half submerged in the clouds is the stunning Heidelberg Castle, 300 feet above the town. Said to be the most famous and the most imposing castle in Germany, the original structure dates from 1303. During the Reformation and the Peasants’ Revolt, what was a medieval fortress was enlarged and extended until by the early 17th century there existed a grand Renaissance-style edifice. This in turn was destroyed twice in the same century during the internecine wars in the reigns of Frederick V, and by Louis XIV"s inheritance claims. At various junctures of the wars, the whole town of Heidelberg was almost completely destroyed as well.

History whispers everywhere around me; it is not all war-related. Throughout 19th century romanticism, this castle and town held a special attraction for poets. Goethe visited here. He is said to have composed and recited some of his finest poems to Marianne in the lovely Hortus Palatinus, the famous Castle gardens, just coming into exciting bloom in this soft spring air. Today, a century after it was written here, I rest on a convenient iron bench, contemplating the lover’s timelessness of Heinrich Heine’s "In den Kussen, welche Luge" ("Oh what lies there are in kisses!"). Mark Twain enjoyed the view, presumably as much as I do; and the list of painters inspired by the Heidelberg landscape is long.

A tour of the Castle reveals, among the expected kingly rooms–the exterior of the castle is much more awesome than its interior–a marvel of the cooper’s trade, the Great Wine Cask, dating back to 1751. Nine yards long and eight yards high, the cask has a capacity of 55,345 gallons of wine! No modern samples were available; but following our visit, my companion and I took the local spring chill off nicely at a nearby vendor’s stall, with a glass of the tasty, warm and fresh spring wine known as gluwein. You must try gluwein in Heidelberg!

Down in the town, one trolley stop from the Castle, is Heidelberg University, the oldest university in Germany and one of the most famous in all Europe. It was founded in 1386. Originally modeled after the University of Paris and under the control of the Catholic Church, after the Protestant Reformation it became the center of Protestant learning. It grew to include schools of medicine, law, philosophy and science, with several hundred professors and lecturers, among them some of Germany’s most illustrious scholars. It was here that Sigmund Romberg’s "The Student Prince" was written. Here, too, Robert Schumann, as a student at the University, began his career as a musician. Today many of the University’s 30,000 students come from abroad.

There are many fine walks over the narrow cobbled streets of the University area, known as the Old Quarter. And no end of shops of all kinds, theatres, movie houses, and, in addition to some fine German restaurants, all manner of international foods, served up fast or in a civilized manner, according to your whim. And, for those who take pleasure in the brew, to speak of German restaurants is of course to commend the number and excellence of German beers.

Another important stop in this interesting city is the Heidelberg Zoo. Large and user-friendly, the Zoo features a bear-window, large enclosures for beasts and bird, a good dining hall for humans, and a delightful children’s playground.

The Heidelberg City Orchestra is an excellent local orchestra that performs the classics, contemporary music as well as special regular programs for children. Of special interest is a related local institute called "Komponnistinnen heute", which focuses on contemporary music created by women in Germany and abroad.