For anyone who has stumbled around Munich during Oktoberfest, Bavaria means oompha bands, lederhosen and beer. But Bavaria also offers a magical and serene countryside for those who prefer to take the autobahn less traveled.
Just a few hours from Munich, tucked away in southern Bavaria, is the Chiemsee. Surrounded by the Chiemgau Alps, this placid lake is ringed with reeds and often blanketed by a white mist. From the tranquil surroundings, it is easy to believe the locals’ claims that Chiemsee water has healing properties. For centuries, Chiemsee has been renowned for its soothing effect on the nerves. Long before mudbaths and mineral cures became a nineteenth century fad, the Romans built settlements on the banks of the Chiemsee. Even Pontius Pilate is known to have taken a cure at Chiemsee. That he died shortly thereafter does not seem to have harmed the lake’s beneficent reputation.
The islands are easily reachable by ferry from the small towns on the lakeside, Prien and Stock. Of the three islands in the Chiemsee, the largest is the Herreninsel, or Man’s Island. In 1887, "Mad" King Ludwig II of Bavaria began building his mock Versailles Palace, Schloss Herreninsel, on the island. The second largest island, the circumference of which can be walked in twenty minutes, is the Fraueninsel, or Women’s Island, which is home to an ancient abbey of Benedictine nuns.
The third island is the tiny Krautinsel, or Cabbage Island, home to many happy ducks. As the ferry glides across the placid waters of the Chiemsee, the sleepy island of Fraueninsel emerges from the mist. Usually overlooked by most visitors, Fraueninsel has provided solitude and safety to fisherman, artists and pilgrims for centuries. Once a small fishing colony, the island now houses a number of artist’s workshops and craft studios. While no one knows how the island got its name, locals believe that Fraueninsel holds a mysterious spiritual power for women who set foot there.
