Florence is well known for its fine toiletry shops. On a recent trip there I found a possible reason for this fame. The Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella is one of the oldest pharmacies in the world. It was founded in 1612 by Dominican friars, and their recipes are still used today. The pharmacy provides what must be a unique visual and olfactory experience.
The salesroom, as the main room is called, was built as a chapel in 1335 and restored and converted to its present use in 1848. The room features a frescoed, vaulted ceiling illustrating the four corners of the earth. The decoration is highly ornate, and the building is filled with a subtle, old apothecary scent.
Two other rooms are open to the public: the Sala Verde and the Antica Spezieria. The Sala Verde still functions as a reception room. On its walls are water marks, which I presumed to be the high water mark of the 1966 flood. The Antica Spezieria, the old Dispensing Chemistry, where all kinds of herbs are available, has displays featuring antique instruments and apothecary jars.
The Dominican friars settled in Florence around 1222. They grew medicinal herbs and prepared medicines, balsams and ointments for their small infirmary adjacent to the convent. (The associated gothic church of Santa Maria Novella is itself notable for its frescoes, which include The Trinity by Masaccio.) Their essences, fragrant water and elixirs gradually brought them world-wide acclaim. Products still made according to the original recipes include Liquore Mediceo, a sweet dessert liqueur no doubt in past times used to cure a serious ailment; Alkermes, strong mint antacid tablets; an aromatic vinegar (Aceto dei Sette Ladri) to treat "fainting fits"; and Antihysteric Water, made with herbs possessing "blandly calming, digestive properties".
>Complementing these preparations are more modern soaps (made with machines dating to the 19th century) and truly contemporary creams, moisturizers and lip balm. All the packaging is reminiscent of the era. While the items are a bit pricey, they have plenty of history and make wonderful gifts. I bought a bar of iris soap for my grandmother and some lip balm—admittedly for its little porcelain jar—for myself.
The Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella is located at Via Della Scala 16, and is definitely worth a quick trip. It is open 9 – 13 (1:00 pm) and 15:30 – 19:30 (3:30 – 7:30 pm). It is closed Saturday afternoons in the summer, and closed Saturday afternoons and Monday mornings in the winter
