Havuzlu Lokantasi is in the depths of Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar.

The first impression is of space. Ceilings are eight or ten meters high, the walls white washed, but graying now perhaps a little grimy. The room is uncluttered with plenty of room to wander around the tables. The atmosphere is timeless. You cannot help but imagine that it was like this 100 years ago. The waiter is ancient. He is unhurried, gentle and patient – possibly the best waiter in the world. The food is virtually all salad, stuffed vine leaves, diced carrots, peppers and the like and cold rice, all beautifully mixed, there is fish too and cold local beer. A vegetarian would be perfectly at home here. There is no rush, it is cool and a perfect escape from the heat, dust and bustle of Istanbul.

Havuzlu Lokantasi, next door to the PTT, Grand Bazaar, Istanbul, Turkey