The best cadaver tombs in Europe, though, are in England. One in Ewelme church, Oxfordshire, is truly gruesome; and there are nastily realistic ones in Wells Cathedral, and also in Tewkesbury Abbey. But my favourite is old As-I-Am, in the south aisle of Norwich cathedral: a portrait bust of a skeleton incised and infilled in black on warm brown stone, saying "As I am so shall you be"… He has such a wonderful grin it is hard to take him quite as seriously as he obviously intends to be taken. Perhaps that’s the trouble with all these monuments; they hide the body too well behind all this artistry and stone.