European Travel Blog » Germany

Cologne Cathedral Germany

admin — Wed, 21 May 2008 11:13:19 +0000

"Cologne, or Köln, is 43 miles by rail from Aix-la-Chapelle. This famous city was originally the chief town of the ancient Ubii, the Oppidum Ubiorum of Tacitus; but it became known as Colonia Agrippina from A. D 51, when Agrippina, who was born here while her father Germanicus held command in the district, induced her husband Claudius to send a colony of veteran soldiers to the place. It afterwards became the chief town of Germania Secunda or Inferior. The Roman remains consist of what is called the Pfaffenport, supposed to be the old Porta Claudia, and some fragments of the walls. Many statues, sarcophagi, mosaic pavements, etc., have been found in and about the city.

The Cathedral is the glory of the modern city, and when completed will be the grandest Gothic church in the world. It was begun in 1248, but the work went on slowly, and the choir was not consecrated until 1322. Little more was accomplished after that date, and nothing from the be ginping of the 16th century until our own day. In 1795 the French used the building as a hay magazine, and stole the lead from the roof. In 1816 its restoratlon was begun under the auspices of the King of Prussia, and since then more than £400,000 (or two millions of dollars) has been expended upon it. The entire structure is now completed with the exception of the towers, which are to be more than 500 feet high. The interior, according to Baedeker, is 448 feet long and 49 broad, or 249′ through the transepts; and the choir is 49 feet high. The magnificent south portal (234 feet high), finished in 1859, cost £105,000, or more than half a million dollars. The stained glass in the windows of the north aisle (1508-9) is much admired. It may be compared with the Munich glass in the south aisle, presented by Louis of Bavaria in 1848.

In the choir the carved stalls and the statues on the pedestals attached to the pillars are of the 14th century. The Chapel of the Three Kings contains a gorgeous shrine of the latter part of the 12th century, enclosing the bones of the Magi, brought by the Empress Helena from Constantinople to Milan, and afterwards transferred by Frederick Barbarossa to Cologne. A fee is charged for showing this shrine and the treasury, which contains a silver shrine and other costly relics. There is a separate fee for admission to the choir and choir chapels (open without charge at certain hours); also for the choir gallery, the outer gallery, and central tower. These last should be visited for the views of the interior of the church, and of the city and the surrounding country, which they afford. ¤ "

The article above continues our occasional excerpts from "A Satchel Guide to Europe", a book published in Boston in 1880 for the benefit of aristocratic Americans embarking on the Grand Tour. As always with these excerpts, remember that the writer’s words of advice were written over a century ago, and one or two things may have changed!

The Cathedral, however, today completed (and restored from the brutal damage of two wars since the Satchel Guide writer viewed it), is still quite magnificent. The Cathedral is almost immediately adjacent to the main rail station; if your rail plans take you through Cologne, as many routes do, check the schedules to see if you can stop over for an hour or so. It’s worth it.

Bus Tour in Heidelberg

admin — Tue, 20 May 2008 22:00:25 +0000

A bus tour is always a good way to be introduced to a new city, and the daily Heidelberg City Bus Tour is attractive and efficient. Should you prefer to be on your own, public transport around Heidelberg is not difficult, even if your German isn’t quite up to the mark. Taxis are plentiful, and the trolley and bus lines very reliable. In the center of town is Der Bahnhof, the train station.

Directly in front of it is a most helpful tourist information center, which will provide the visitor with maps and explicit directions to almost anywhere in or outside of the city. The trolley and bus lines abet Der Bahnhof; vehicle operators are cordial and helpful, even if you pronounce "strudel" as though it’s a native California idiom.

Speaking of strudel, what is Heidelberg without–its strudels and noodles, and all kinds of delightful dining? A bit price-y, and you may put on pounds — but don’t leave the region without sampling the sauerbraten, or the hare or venison, served with delicious small dumplings and red cabbage. Wild boar can often be found on menus. The Jaeger Schnitzel(hunter’s veal) is famous and delicious. Such specialties often are at their tastiest in restaurants in the suburbs, or small towns on the outskirts of the city. Easily reachable by bus are Bruhl, Mannheim, Rohrbach, Ladenburg(where you can cook your own steak), or Speyer, which latter town also is the site of a beautiful 12th century cathedral, the largest remaining structure in Germany of the Romanesque period.

Other interesting southern German cities within a morning’s drive from Heidelberg along the Autobahn include Frankfurt, Stuttgart, Rothenberg, Nuremberg, and Munich, each with unique historical presence. The birthplace of the great German poet Goethe, Frankfurt is today a major city of industry and banking, and a transportation center. Nuremberg, besides being the home of the infamous Nazi war crimes trials, is the birthplace of the painter Albrecht Durer. Stuttgart is a gateway to the rich resort areas of the Black Forest, as well as a publishing and an automotive center. Munich, the capital of Bavaria, is a treasure chest of art and history, with many fine museums.

A word on local fun: if you go into a bar, and the bartender asks you to show "one pfennig" (a penny) and you don’t have one, you must buy a round of drinks.

Heidelberg – One of the loveliest city in the world

admin — Mon, 19 May 2008 22:00:20 +0000

From Goethe to Mark Twain, Artists Have Loved It

Oh, to be in Heidelberg, now that April’s here!

One of the loveliest cities of Europe, the great German university city of Heidelberg stretches along both sides of the wide Neckar River, a tributary of the Rhine. Pleasure boats thread a leisurely path along the river, enticing strollers and bikers to the shoreline the better to wave to passengers on the boat decks. The boats pass under the twin-towered Carl Theodor Bridge, one of the most beautiful bridges in the world. Completed in the 18th century, of stone, it has survived where eight of its predecessors constructed of wood had been destroyed by fire, ice or floods since 1310. Close by the Bridge are the Hirschgasse, the traditional dueling site, and the wonderful walkway along the river known as Philosophers’ Way.

Stepping along that path, you look high overhead. Half submerged in the clouds is the stunning Heidelberg Castle, 300 feet above the town. Said to be the most famous and the most imposing castle in Germany, the original structure dates from 1303. During the Reformation and the Peasants’ Revolt, what was a medieval fortress was enlarged and extended until by the early 17th century there existed a grand Renaissance-style edifice. This in turn was destroyed twice in the same century during the internecine wars in the reigns of Frederick V, and by Louis XIV"s inheritance claims. At various junctures of the wars, the whole town of Heidelberg was almost completely destroyed as well.

History whispers everywhere around me; it is not all war-related. Throughout 19th century romanticism, this castle and town held a special attraction for poets. Goethe visited here. He is said to have composed and recited some of his finest poems to Marianne in the lovely Hortus Palatinus, the famous Castle gardens, just coming into exciting bloom in this soft spring air. Today, a century after it was written here, I rest on a convenient iron bench, contemplating the lover’s timelessness of Heinrich Heine’s "In den Kussen, welche Luge" ("Oh what lies there are in kisses!"). Mark Twain enjoyed the view, presumably as much as I do; and the list of painters inspired by the Heidelberg landscape is long.

A tour of the Castle reveals, among the expected kingly rooms–the exterior of the castle is much more awesome than its interior–a marvel of the cooper’s trade, the Great Wine Cask, dating back to 1751. Nine yards long and eight yards high, the cask has a capacity of 55,345 gallons of wine! No modern samples were available; but following our visit, my companion and I took the local spring chill off nicely at a nearby vendor’s stall, with a glass of the tasty, warm and fresh spring wine known as gluwein. You must try gluwein in Heidelberg!

Down in the town, one trolley stop from the Castle, is Heidelberg University, the oldest university in Germany and one of the most famous in all Europe. It was founded in 1386. Originally modeled after the University of Paris and under the control of the Catholic Church, after the Protestant Reformation it became the center of Protestant learning. It grew to include schools of medicine, law, philosophy and science, with several hundred professors and lecturers, among them some of Germany’s most illustrious scholars. It was here that Sigmund Romberg’s "The Student Prince" was written. Here, too, Robert Schumann, as a student at the University, began his career as a musician. Today many of the University’s 30,000 students come from abroad.

There are many fine walks over the narrow cobbled streets of the University area, known as the Old Quarter. And no end of shops of all kinds, theatres, movie houses, and, in addition to some fine German restaurants, all manner of international foods, served up fast or in a civilized manner, according to your whim. And, for those who take pleasure in the brew, to speak of German restaurants is of course to commend the number and excellence of German beers.

Another important stop in this interesting city is the Heidelberg Zoo. Large and user-friendly, the Zoo features a bear-window, large enclosures for beasts and bird, a good dining hall for humans, and a delightful children’s playground.

The Heidelberg City Orchestra is an excellent local orchestra that performs the classics, contemporary music as well as special regular programs for children. Of special interest is a related local institute called "Komponnistinnen heute", which focuses on contemporary music created by women in Germany and abroad.

Travel to Munich by Train

admin — Sun, 06 Apr 2008 09:37:42 +0000

MUNICH: Chic, cosmopolitan, carefree and kitschy: Bavaria’s capital and one of Germany’s biggest cities has more than an ample offering of great museums, architectural treasures, historic sites and world-class hotels, restaurants and shops. Add in its abundance of lederhosen and oompah bands and the overall feeling of Gemutlichkeit, or conviviality, and you see what makes Munich special. A few particularly good tourist destinations are:

BMW Museum This museum is an extremely attractive building. It is shaped like a futuristic silver bowl and the "Time Horizons" exhibit takes you on a journey through technical feats of pioneering, from the historic BMW sports car, (including legendary prototypes), right up to the futuristic study of automobiles and motorcycles. Other exhibits include alternative propulsion methods, recycling and cooperative traffic management. Headsets and museum guides in six languages are available.

Englischer Garten (English Garden) One of Munich’s large, most beautiful parks, it is home to many paths, brooks, ponds, a river, swans, beer gardens, and the Chinese Tower. It is most well know for its four beer gardens and nude sunbathers. This large park stretches all the way from the center of the city to the northern city border.

Museum Villa Stuck showcases the works of painter Franz Von Stuck and exhibitions of art nouveau, classical modern, applied art and contemporary art.

Museumlinie (Bus Museum): the place to catch a scenic tour bus which shows you a lot of museums and other attractions; also a good way to get oriented to Munich.

Deutsches Jagd und Fischerei Museum (Hunting & Fishing Museum) This museum is housed in the former church of an old Augustinian Monastery and is packed with many stuffed animal heads from the 17th and 18th centuries. There is also a huge collection of fish hooks, the largest in the world, and there are hands-on exhibits. You may also see a prime example of the legendary zoological curiosity, the Wolpertinger.

Octoberfest Mid-September thru October, is the place to be when in Munich. This world-famous annual festival is one of the biggest on the globe and includes beer tents, shows, booths, rides, contests, Bavarian costumes and more. The Theresienwiese is also called the Wies’n and is a huge place, where all the Oktoberfest activities take place. The 2004 Octoberfest was the 171st time for this massive celebration. Around 5 million liters of beer were consumed and over 200,000 pairs of pork sausages eaten by around 6 million visitors. At the foot of the Bavaria statue, the huge venue provides carousels, roller coasters and all sorts of fair-related activities and entertainment. There is a well planned program of events, including the Grand Entry of the Oktoberfest, Landlords and Breweries, the Costume and Riflemen’s Procession and a concert involving all the brass bands represented at the Wies’n! Go to: http://www.muenchen.de to find out anything you need to know about Munich and about the upcoming Octoberfest and other festivals and activities.

So you see, you can jump the train a few times, spend a few days here and there, all through Germany. With the various train passes offered, you have lots of flexibility and room for last minute changes. Travel to the Black Forest, the Rhine Valley, the castles of Bavaria and Germany. Let your imagination and travel desires be your guide.

Travel to NURNBERG by Train

admin — Sat, 05 Apr 2008 09:36:49 +0000

NURNBERG: This city celebrated its 900th birthday in 1950 and the scars of World War II were still fresh. Nurnberg was once the ideal of medieval splendor but lost that legacy in the ashes of war. No other German city, except Dresden, suffered the devastation that Nurnberg did in a single air raid. On January 2, 1945 a total of 525 British Lancaster bombers rained fire and destruction on this ideological Third Reich center. Now, the city is a symbol of postwar prosperity and is swarming with active, busy people: longtime residents and Gastarbeiter, (foreign workers). It is a notable industrial center, still associated with its traditional gingerbread products and handmade toys. Nurnberg eggs, the first pocket watches, were made here in the 16th century.

Visitors here can see the ruins of the ramparts that once surrounded the city along with more modern sites, such as the Justice Palace where the War Crimes Tribunal sat in 1946. The Zeppelinfeld Arena, the huge amphitheater where Hitler staged his dramatic Nazi rallies from 1927 to 1935 is here. Hitler’s architect, Albert Speer, constructed a "concrete Mecca," today turned into a park with apartments, a trade fair, and a concert hall (Speer’s Congress Hall) which is larger than the Coliseum in Rome, has become a recording studio and warehouse. The most popular tourist shrine seems to be the Albrecht Durer House, just a short walk up the cobble stoned Bergstrasse from the Durer Monument and St. Sebald Church. This structure is the only completely preserved Gothic house in Nurnberg. The first floors are sandstone, surmounted by two half-timbered stories and a gabled roof with a view of the town below. Exhibits inside the house are devoted to Durer’s life and works. Furniture is period and original etchings and woodcuts, along with copies of Durer’s paintings, are on display.

Visit the Documentation Center Nazi Party Rally Grounds to gain a greater understanding of the events in Nurnberg which shaped world history. Regular guided tours are given to Courtroom 600, permanent and changing exhibitions and to the rally grounds.

Nurnberg is a major toy center and it devotes a huge museum to toys, hand-made and machine-made, filling three full floors. Some date back to medieval times and there is a very extensive and amusing at times dollhouse collection, and a mechanical Ferris wheel. The Germanisches Nationalmuseum (Germanic National Museum) is the largest museum of German art and culture and is located just outside the medieval city walls. It covers the entire spectrum of German craftsmanship and fine arts from their beginnings to the 20th century. Prehistoric and early historical sections contain finds from the Stone Age and from the burial sites of the Merovingians. The extensive painting and sculpture sections include works by Albrecht Durer and Veit Stoss, a sculptor and woodcarver known for his "nervous" angular forms and realism. A great variety and richness of German handcrafts are here, along with an important library and archive.

Travel to Frankfurt by Train

admin — Fri, 04 Apr 2008 09:36:22 +0000

Frankfurt: With 36 museums, innumerable galleries, theaters and nightclubs, Frankfurt stands tall on the German cultural skyline. Comprehensive art collections and special interest exhibitions attract the artistic. Opera performances and the Museum Concerts lead by world famous conductors draw music lovers, the Tigerpalasi, (Tiger Palace) presents international cabaret stars and the Festhalle (Festival Hall) hosts the superstars of rock and pop. The international population of Frankfurt has resulted in two English, one French, a Russian, a Japanese and an Italian theater in addition to the municipal opera and theater venues.

Food ranges from hearty, down to earth cooking to gourmet temples, not to mention exquisite Lebanese, Italian and Japanese restaurants. Sporting events are big here. You can spend many days enjoying this city.

Travel to Cologne (Koln) by Train

admin — Thu, 03 Apr 2008 09:35:08 +0000

Cologne (Koln): The major city in western Germany’s industrial heartland, its best known sight is the mighty Gothic Dom. This Cathedral has a rich history, dating back to the 4th Century. The nearby old town has interesting monuments, squares and other traces of its 2000 year history. Right next to the Cathedral is the Roman-Germanic Museum, built over and around a floor mosaic from between 220-230 ACE; the mosaic depicts the Greek God of Revelry, Dionysus, in a dance scene portrayed with flower and animal motifs. This mosaic belonged to the dining hall of a Roman city villa which had over 20 rooms.

The museum further portrays everyday life in the former Roman city of Cologne. Artifacts, tools, eating utensils and weapons are displayed as is the largest Roman blown glass collection in the world. There are a lot of excellent museums in Cologne, including the Cologne City Museum, (middle ages to present); Museum for East Asian Art, (treasures of Japan and China); Archbishops Diocese Museum, (sacramental art, history and main church themes plus graves, crosses, sculptures and monstrance). The "Madonna with Violets" by Lochner is here.

At the EL-DE House, a history of prison and prisoners is preserved. The Gestapo ran a small prison here where they interrogated, tortured and murdered captives. Also in this interesting, if not disturbing, museum is a permanent exhibition about the Nazi era in Cologne.

The Museum Ludwig is a Modern Art treasure house; the Wallraf Richartz Museum (WRM) houses much of the sacramental artworks from Cologne’s churches and cloisters during Napoleon’s occupation. Also presented are impressionists’ works of Swiss collector Gerard Corboud’s private collection.

My favorite museum in Cologne has to be the Chocolate-Museum Imhoff-Stollwerck. You can follow the production process on site of table chocolate and pralines. You monitor the entry of raw materials into the process by viewing the greenhouse in which their own coca beans grow. Finished chocolate flows out of a fountain; nibbling is allowed, indeed, preferred. On computer screens you can view old chocolate ads. The museum restaurant, with its view of the Rhine, offers hearty meals and chocolate desserts. Visit their site here.

Cologne has a broad spectrum of cultural attractions. The Radio Symphony Orchestra of the Hessischer Rundfunk and the Museum Society attract guests and guest performers from around the world.

Travel to Hamburg by Train

admin — Wed, 02 Apr 2008 09:34:31 +0000

HAMBURG: A major port with plenty to keep maritime fans interested, offers nice boat trips around the harbor. You’ll pass docks and through the old warehouse district. In the center of the city are several lakes, popular spots to relax in good weather. Take an Alster Tour by steamer. This tour takes you along Alster canals where you can admire splendid villas from their backyard gardens. On dry land, you’ll find lots to keep your attention. The Hamburg Museum now extends from the Kunsthalle past the Kunstverein and the Museum for Arts & Krafts, (Museum for Kunst und Gewerbe), down to the Deichtorhallen.

The downtown shopping area has chic little boutiques, shiny shopping malls and huge department stores. In the center of town, the Hamburg Town Hall dominates the area with its impressive architecture. In midsummer, the Stuttgart wine village comes to Hamburg, supplying exquisite wines and accompanying foods. At Advent, the Christmas Market stretches from Townhall Square across Monckebergstrasse right up to Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz. In Townhall Square, you’ll find porcelain, crystal, souvenirs, snacks, books, just about anything you want. There is even a restaurant in the Townhall Passage where you can buy or borrow books. Designer fashions, second-hand clothes, bars and clubs, anything anyone is seeking seems to be available.

There is no curfew in Hamburg; bars and clubs close at 4am during the week and don’t close on weekends. Cult shops are found in the Schanze district, rustic bars in St Pauli and clubs and discos with DJ’s from all over the planet keep the Hamburg scene alive, well and grooving. Food is good here from snacks to gourmet delights.

For info on Hamburg attractions: http://www.hamburg-tourism.de
Click on the flag designating your language. The site is loaded with good information.

Castle of King Ludwig

admin — Sun, 23 Mar 2008 01:23:10 +0000

Ludwig had no interest in state affairs, loathed his family, despised the court, and considered the aristocracy ridiculous. He also hated everything to do with armies and war, which was unfortunate considering that he reigned during the wars of German unification. Days before Prussia declared war on Austria and Bavaria, Ludwig proclaimed, "A war? There is no war! I will not allow it! I won’t have a war!" He was, unfortunately, mistaken. On the day the Bavarian troops went off to fight for the fatherland, the King and his friend Prince Taxis enacted Wagner’s erotic opera Tristan and Isolde in the woods of Hohenschwangau, dressed in multicolored tights of apricot and canary and drunk on champagne.

Aside from Wagnerian opera, Ludwig’s primary interest was in building ornate castles. Of Ludwig’s three fantastically weird constructions, Schloss Herrenchiemsee is perhaps the most eclectic. Obsessed with the idea of absolute monarchy, Ludwig built Schloss Herrenchiemsee as a temple in honor of the Bourbon monarchy. The castle, which is a miniature replica of Versailles, is replete with portraits and sculptures of the Sun King, Louis XIV, Louis XVI and Marie Antionette. Preferring darkness to light, Ludwig fancied himself as the "king of the moon." The atmosphere of Schloss Herrenchiemsee corresponds to this fantasy and much of the castle is best seen at night, particularly the hall of mirrors which contains fifty-two candelabra and over four thousand candles. During the summer, classical music concerts are given here by candlelight.

Ludwig’s passion for garden planning, interior decorating and Wagnerian opera eventually bankrupted the royal treasury. Despite the fact that Schloss Neuschwanstein and Schloss Herrenchiemsee were still unfinished, Ludwig demanded a loan of twenty million marks from the Minister of the Interior in order to begin new projects. When the Minister flatly refused to give him any more money, Ludwig sent his aides-de-camp to plead his case with the King of Norway, the Sultan in Constantinople, and the Shah in Tehran. When all of these plans seemed likely to fail, Ludwig lost his temper: "If the treasury is empty, Herr von Pfistermeister, go to Switzerland and rob banks!" Needless to say, Ludwig’s minions failed to obey his orders and no banks were robbed but his reckless behavior, which had finally become intolerable, prompted the Cabinet and his ministers to declare him insane and depose him from the kingship.

To Ludwig, his palaces were holy places. He believed that mobs of visitors would "desecrate and defile" them and, to discourage guests, he built his castles in virtually inaccessible places. Neuschwanstein is perched high in the Alps, while Schloss Herrenchiemsee sits upon an island in a remote alpine lake. While the remote location has not deterred the flocks of summer tourists, the Chiemsee retains the natural beauty that once charmed a king. Chiemsee, surrounded by the Alps and reflecting the Bavarian sky, is a magical environment and provides solace to those who stay awhile.

Leipzig by Train

admin — Sat, 22 Mar 2008 04:53:17 +0000

LEIPZIG might be your next train stop. A popular venue for trade shows, congresses and commerce this entertainment metropolis has old Renaissance and Baroque architecture, historical trading centers and malls with all modernized and restored facilities providing a stylish paradise for shoppers and sightseers. The Gewandhaus Concert Hall, the Opera House, the St. Thomas Choir, cabarets, theaters and jazz cellars guarantee something for everyone to enjoy.

The Old Town Hall houses the City History Museum, a cultural museum with a particularly rich collection. Goethe and his Faust Cycle made the Auerbachs Keller restaurant a must see; the late Gothic St. Thomas’ Church is the traditional venue for performances by the St. Thomas Choir and provides a final resting place for Johann Sebastian Bach; Zum Arabischen Coffe Baum, a cafe and restaurant which is actually one of Europe’s oldest traditional coffee houses, including a coffee museum; Mendelssohn House, where Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy lived and died and the only surviving private address of Mendelssohn worldwide; Museum der bildenden Kunste: Fine arts including paintings by old German and Dutch masters and works by German masters of the 19th century. In 2004, this museum moved into a brand new building on the Sachsenplatz.

Shopping in Leipzig is excellent. The Promenaden shopping center at the central station has around 140-150 shops on three levels; extremely exclusive shopping is provided in the Maddler Passage and Specks Hof malls. There are large selections of shops and department stores in the Hainstrasse, Nikolaistrasse, Petersstrasse and Grimmainsche Strasse.

You can pick up a Leipzig Card for the public transport network at any number of places. It includes reductions for museums, concerts, performances and even in selected pubs and restaurants. You can get the Leipzig card for 7.40 euros for a day, 3 days for 15.50 euros. Travel agents, train stations and any number of outlets have the Leipzig card. If you plan on staying a few days, it is worth purchasing.