European Travel Blog » Greece

The White Mountains of Crete

admin — Tue, 30 Sep 2008 22:43:20 +0000

An utterly spectacular mountain drive awaits you in Western Crete. From the city of Hania on the Northern coast, the roads go south through the Lefka Ori (White Mountains) to the soutern coast of the island. We hit Crete during a heat wave in the dead of summer, so we got a rare oppurtunity to take in these mountains without any snow around. They’re called the White Mountains because they almost always have snow at the peaks. Not this time.

Depending on which mountain road is taken, one can wind up at Xyloskalo (the beginning of the Samaria Gorge), or at the isolated beach town of Sougia on the southern coast. The roads get a little hairy at times, with a 100 meter drop right off the edge.

Making its way through the Lefka Ori, the road twists and turns its way through uncompromising peaks and tranquil valleys, and you’re presented with a constantly changing myriad of scenery. One minute you’re bissecting a plateau spotted with dark green shrubs, the bushes evenly scattered like polka-dots, while the next minute you’re moving along a steep precipice of nothing but silvery-grey rock, falling off the edge in a 50 meter drop. For one mile you’re scooting along a flank of bright reddish mahogany, while the next mile you’re suddenly drenched with a symphony of colorful wildflowers–some cherry-colored, some bright yellow, and some lavendar. One minute you notice the mysterious breeds of goats and sheep meandering along in sporadic herds, the stench being so bad that you have to roll the window up. Then, upon merely turning a few corners up the road, you’re immersed in intoxicating aromas of sage and rosemary.

The road also changes frequently. Sometimes it’s marked and paved, while sometimes it isn’t. Several man-made dirt roads veer off in various directions and we noticed one that traversed the entire valley, swiching back several times and heading all the way to the top of one of the peaks.

In the Lefka Ori, you’ll drive through small villages, like Moni, Agia Irini, Laki, and Fournes that have been inhabited by families for generations. About 12 km from Sougia we stopped at a local tavern where the proprietor offered us complimentary shots of Raki as a greeting, a common Cretan custom.

RHODES

admin — Wed, 17 Sep 2008 18:40:15 +0000

If you like to mix beaches, medieval history, art and architecture, shopping, eating, drinking and exploring the natural beauty of Greece, then Rhodes is the perfect place. Throw in at least 9 months a year of swimming, 12 months if you’re ambitious, and you have another incredible Greek Island. Rhodes is, of course, a popular tourist destination and, with good reason. Rhodes has two major impressive archaeological areas, the Lindos Acropolis and Old Town.

Of course, the Colossus of Rhodes area, at the entrance of the harbor to Rhodes (the city) is the first thing you want to see. The sixth oldest of the Ancient Seven Wonders of the world, the Colossus actually lasted only 53 years. A bronze statue built to honor the patron god Helios, it stood 110 feet tall, raised another 50 feet by its pedestal. An earthquake toppled it in 226 BC and it lay in waste for over 800 years. In 654 AD, after a successful invasion, Arabs sold the pieces abroad. There are several opinions as to where the statue stood; the only thread of agreement in any of them is that it stood at the entrance to the city. For detailed information,

The Old Town of Rhodes is a bustling neighborhood of some 6,000 people, who live and work in the same buildings in which the Knights of St. John lived and worked over six centuries ago. This restored, walled city is fascinating; the old and the new blend quite well. Walking tour brochures are readily available and information on each of the points of interest is abundant.

You can visit museums like the Decorative Arts Museum and then have a glass of wine in an outside café. Wander to the cobble stoned Street of the Knights which was built in the 14th century. It is lined on either side with the Inns of the Knights of St. John, once used as eating spots and temporary residences for visiting dignitaries. Architectural details on each façade reflect the resident country; on one side of the street are the Inns of Italy and France, on the other, the Inn of Spain. Today these buildings house offices and foreign embassies.

Palaces, monasteries, souvenir shops, cafes and restaurants all share the same area. The summer home for Dictator Benito Mussolini of Italy has been fully restored and is worth a look – the central courtyard and mosaic floors are lovely to behold. On down the way, the 1523 Mosque of Suleiman sits opposite the Turkish Library. The intertwining of cultures continues all over the Old Town and is captivating to mingle with.

At the Lindos Acropolis stands the Sanctuary of Athena Lindia with some impressive ruins of buildings. Have a look at www.culture.gr for an in-depth description and photos of this impressive area which also includes the Temple of Apollo. Intriguing, and well worth a visit, is the Aquarium of Rhodes found in the Hydrobiological Station of Rhodes in Rhodes at the northernmost tip of the island.

A museum is here too. This research facility conducts a wide range of research activities in oceanography, fisheries and inland waters through its corresponding Institutes. The 40 tanks, of 80,000 litres total capacity, house a multicolored population of interesting Mediterranean invertebrate and vertebrate marine species such as sea anemones and plants, urchins, algae, corals, bivalves, lobsters, octopuses, numerous fish, sea turtles and others.

Unique in its layout and natural decoration, the only public aquarium in Greece gives to its visitors the impression that they share the same environment with the hosted species. The Museum displays stuffed sea-mammals, large fish and other Mediterranean marine organisms, in addition to a collection of oceanographic instruments.

You can easily spend a good day visiting both these exhibits and, if you have a chance to talk to one of the research staff, you are likely to be offered a glass of wine or a cup of tea or coffee while you listen to descriptions of the current studies taking place.

Annual music festivals and art festivals, attracting musicians and artists worldwide, take place here on a regular basis. It is difficult to visit Rhodes at any time without finding an international festival honoring some aspect of the arts taking place. A very active night life persists and includes discos, coffee shops and bars, pool, tavernas, Greek folk music, internationally known entertainers or, if you prefer, quiet outdoor and indoor cafes with plenty of liquid refreshment and Greek food to tease your palate.

The Sound & Light Show, given during the summer months, takes place in the old Fort in Rhodes. It is presented in various languages and gives a nice, dramatic historic sketch of the island. Don’t miss this. It is quite impressive and informative. There is a casino, including slot machines, in Rhodes and it is open 24 hours a day. Food and drink are abundant at the eatery of your choice. You cannot be bored on the Island of Rhodes.

Crete Tourist Information

admin — Sat, 16 Aug 2008 12:47:29 +0000

Mountainous and boasting over 3,000 caves, the largest Greek island, Crete is positioned between Europe, Asia and Africa, therefore being subject to political, cultural and conflicting attitudes. It has been repeatedly invaded and periodically conquered, diminishing some ways of life and adding others. The Minoan Civilization is strongly perceptible in ruins and records. King Minos’ Palace of Knossós is intriguing. A 1300 room palace, with a pressure water system, it existed thousands of years ago. Portions of it have been restored and it is worthy of several days of exploration. I suggest a visit first to the Archaeological Museum in Iraklion. It houses the most expansive, magnificent collection of Minoan art and cultural records anywhere.

You can briefly view everything in the museum in several hours; to my thinking, several days would be more like it. Why not acquire books and pamphlets for the museum and two major Minoan sites on Crete, digest the information, explore the museum, and then visit the excavations at Phaestos and Knossós? You can spend days absorbing these ruins. The museum covers 5,000 years of colorful history on Crete; take time to enjoy the exhibits. Knossós includes the Great Palace, The Little Palace, A Royal Villa, The House of the High Priest, The Caravan Seral and the Royal Temple Tomb-Sanctuary, and many other smaller excavations are ongoing. Phaistos is an extremely well maintained archaeological area. Just at Iraklion, it is easily accessible and a desirable destination for anyone interested in the history of the island.

Another museum worthy of at least a few hours is the Historical Museum in Iraklion, covering the early Christian era to current cultures; the museum of Natural History also is worthy of a few hours. Iraklion, the home of these museums, is the biggest city in Crete and the main port of entry. A modern airport and a competent seaport ensure ease of entry onto the island. Lodging is easily available for any budget, tourist agencies abound and the island inhabitants are warm and friendly. You can rent a car, a driver, a boat, a motorbike, hiking equipment, caving equipment, fishing equipment or just about anything you can think of.

There are plenty of ATM machines, credit cards and travelers checks are widely accepted, electric current is 220V (North American appliances require a transformer and British ones need an adaptor); currency is the Euro, Internet cafes flourish, even in small villages – the usual rate is about 1.5 euros an hour; English is widely spoken; raki is the local drink (sometimes called tsikoudia, it is to Crete what ouzo is to the rest of Greece).

Should you need a toilet in a restaurant or a cafe, look for the WC sign. Inside the toilet you will notice a waste basket or bin. This is where you should throw the toilet paper because the delicate Greek waste pipes will get blocked if you throw the toilet paper in the toilet bowl; drinking tap water is not recommended so stick with bottled water, readily available. Driving is on the right, as in the United States. You must be 21 to rent a car and must possess an International Driver’s License. Crete is a big island and renting a car may be your best bet. Gasoline is available usually at least in one station, 24 hours a day, in most towns.

Available outdoor activities include diving, fishing, and hiking, 4X4 Jeep tours, canyoning, caving, rock climbing, horseback riding, cultural walks, mountain biking, outdoor games, rappelling, river trekking and even yoga. White sandy beaches, crystal-clear blue waters, five-star accommodations to primitive camping are available. For full information on these and more, have a look: http://www.explorecrete.com Shopping is interesting and abundant; you can even print out coupons from this web site to lessen your financial burden. Folk art, textiles, pottery, leather goods are plentiful; buy some fresh vegetables, mostly organic and pesticide free on this island. The honey here has a different flavor, it is clean and pure. I was told that pesticides are just not used anywhere on the island.

Exantas Restaurant is located on the north coastal road of Crete, between Panormo and Bali, at the 25th km marker of the new national road. The views are pleasing of the mountains and valley; this "taverna" is known for its tasty food and ambiance. The wine selection is excellent with their own production, and the owners operate on an ecological basis, using solar energy and natural soils to produce much of what is served in their restaurant. They produce their own milk, vegetables, oil, meat and honey. They use no pesticides and are truly a "natural food" taverna. A signature sound in Crete is a herd of sheep or goats heading out to pasture; listen, you’ll hear it here.

Mrs. Kristalia Psoma, of the Exantas Restaurant, shares her recipe for a house specialty, Marathopita (Fennel) Pie:

Ingredients: 3 bunches fennel, "some" wild horta (greens) or spinach, 2 shot glasses of olive oil, 1/2 kilo (about a pound) of all purpose flour, plus 2 tablespoons; 1 shot glass of raki and salt and pepper to taste.

Preparation: Make pie dough: Mix ½ kilo (1 lb.) all purpose flour with raki, 1 shot glass olive oil, ¼ teaspoon salt and some lukewarm water until dough is ready.

Filling: Wash greens and drain well. Then chop and toss lightly with salt, pepper, 1 teaspoon oil and 2 tablespoons flour. Separate dough into small round pieces the size of tennis balls. Make a small cavity in the middle of each and add a tablespoon of filling. Enclose the filling and work into balls again. With a floured rolling pin, press each ball into a thin round, the size of a small plate. Brush each side with olive oil and cook in a stick-free frying pan over very low heat for several minutes on each side until golden brown. NOTE: In years past, housewives would cook them on a stone or sheet-iron over a wood fire, and accompanying wine was a must."

For a special discount on a meal at Exantas Restaurant, go to www.exadas-crete.comand print out your coupon.

The Arkadiou Monastery between Rethymnon and Iraklion is a 5th century holy site that became a symbol of Cretan resistance in November 1866 when hundreds of refugees and revolutionaries chose death over surrender to the Turks. They blew themselves to pieces with the gunpowder that was being stored there by the Cretan Revolutionaries. The monastery was rebuilt and is well worth a visit.

The Holy Monastery of Preveli is south of Prefecture of Rethymnon and it is the most sacred part of the Holy Diocese of Lambis and Sfakion. The monastery consists of two main building complexes, the Lower (Kato) Monastery of Saint John the Baptist and the Rear (Pisso) Monastery of Saint John the Theologian which is in operation today. The icons here span a period from the first half of the 17th to the end of 19th centuries and there are a considerable number of vestments and other relics. This very active monastery is worth going to see.

The beaches are, of course, wonderful. There are nude beaches and if you are interested in knowing where they are, a comprehensive list can be had at gogreece.about.comWhether you go nude or don a bathing suit, you’ll want to spend some time soaking up the beautiful sunshine and splashing in the clear waters before you rest for all the night life you want…or none at all. It’s all here; you have but to pick and choose. This island offers mountains, valleys, deep gorges with rocky coasts, vast sandy beaches and pebble shorelines. Villages are awash in whitewash against various shades of green; ruins, monasteries, old castles and simple homes dot the landscape. The air is clean, warm and inviting. Sheep, goats, cattle and other animals enjoy their idyllic life. People do too. I hope your time in Crete is as splendid as mine was.