Karczma restaurant is a maze of rooms underground; it sits on the old town square which was destroyed during the 1945 Warsaw uprising by the retreating Nazis, and since rebuilt stone-by-stone using old plans and drawings. A typical Warsavian dinner is loaded with cholesterol: there was bread on the table when we arrived, and in [...]

Poland has always been a border country – particularly in the Middle Ages, when the boundaries between the German states and the Slavic peoples were fluid. Germans ruled in Tallinn, which they called Reval – and in Torun, where the massive brick fortress of the Teutonic Knights still reminds the visitor of their grim rule. [...]