Unlike most European castles, this one is fully furnished in its original opulence, with extensive descriptions of each room. The rooms are an eclectic mix of themes, from Persian Renaissance to the Baroque. After touring the palace for a couple of hours, we descended the same path we had come. Halfway down the hill, at a shuttle bus stop, the entrance to the grounds of the Castelo dos Mouros beckoned. The remains of this Moorish fortress, in its rolling parkland setting, date from the sixteenth century. Its ramparts sprawl along the hillside, and climbing them (an easy task compared to the morning’s hike) offers dramatic views of the valley, and of the Palcio da Pena, glittering now in the afternoon sun.