Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s "old town," had its start in the 13th century. The medieval streets are a fascinating study of lanes, arches and stairways. It contains the present Royal Palace, completed in 1760. The original Royal Palace was burned down in the 17th century. The apartments and armory offer authentic looks into the past. Along the cobblestones of Vasterlanggatan, you’ll find shops with rare souvenirs, crafts and art.

Restaurants in Stockholm offer anything you want to eat. An unforgettable fish meal can be had at Lisa Elmquist, Ostermalm Square, 31 Nybrogatan, phone 46/8/660 92 32. Located in the produce market area, the restaurant serves lunch and dinner right next to the fresh fish counters. A favorite is the Sandwich Skagen, featuring a mixture of shrimp, roe and freshly made mayonnaise; tender filets that were swimming freely around in the Baltic just hours earlier make truly the freshest seafood meals you’ll ever enjoy. Salmon and salmon trout are fresh and delicious. Major cards accepted.

Some other notable Stockholm eateries:

• Broderna Olsson — owned by two brothers named Olsson! — offers provincial cooking in a relaxed atmosphere. Garlic lovers will love every dish on the menu. The pickled herring is amazing. 84 Folkungagatan, tel. 46/8/640 84 46. Major cards accepted.
  




• Le Bistro de Wasahof is a low-key, neighborhood spot offering traditional food in a pub atmosphere. A local hangout for writers, artists and students. Major cards accepted. Don’t miss this delightful place. 46 Dalagatan, tel. 46/8/32 34 40.
  




• Get dressed up and go enjoy true Swedish cooking at Nils Emil, in a setting of antique ship models and paintings by Swedish artists. It’s cozy, lively and everyone gets the royal treatment. A bit pricey but worth it. Major credit cards. 122 Folkungagatan, tel. 46/8/640 72 09.

If shopping’s your game, Stockholm’s best buys are woolen mittens, reindeer gloves, colorful Lappland coats and sweaters; visit downtown department stores and small boutiques in Old Town. There are shops to purchase fine Orrefors and Kista Boda crystal and sleek Scandinavian furniture and, of course, there is IKEA.

To grasp the full character of Stockholm, island hop. Stockholm sprawls across 14 islands; each inhabited island is unique and interesting. One must-see is the Marionettmuseet (International Puppet Theatre Museum) which has puppets, masks and monsters from around the world. Tel. 46/8/10 30 61. Stockholm’s Leksaksmuseet (Toy Museum) has a playroom to entertain the kids while you nose around a fascinating collection of nostalgic and international toys, including Mickey Mouse toys from the early 20th century. A cafe offers snacks. Tel. 46/8/641 61 00.

Sergels Torg, a central square located in Norrmalm, serves as the hop-off point for modern Stockholm. On Helgeans Holmen, the tiny island immediately south of Norrmalm, sits the Riksdagshser (Parliament Building) followed by the medieval Gamla Stan (Old Town) island and then the large Sodermaim, a bohemian enclave in a former blue-collar quarter. Across the Strommen lie the two scenic islands of Skeppsholmen and Kastell-Holmen. Farther east, Jurgaden Island houses a number of city museums and connects to the northern Ostermalm, a pricey residential neighborhood that adjoins Norrmalm. A stunning combination of man-made gardens, medieval castles, high rise buildings and natural scenery guarantee you’ll be fascinated at every step.

U.S. citizens don’t need a visa for up to a 90-days in the land of the Nobel Prize, ABBA, Greta Garbo, Absolut Vodka, the Volvo, IKEA and the smorgasbord. (Visitors from other countries should check requirements, however.) Higher prices are offset by fresh air, incredible landscapes, mountains and national parks, endangered bird and seal reserves, botanical gardens, over 40 species of orchids and extensive cultural delights in the over 450,000 sq. km., (170,000 sq mi) area. Skating, downhill and cross country skiing and winter sports dominate the winter; canoeing on calm lakes or conquering river rapids, hiking, camping, swimming and diving for sunken treasure in old wrecks and camera safari for scenery and abundant wildlife are summertime pleasures.