Mountainous and boasting over 3,000 caves, the largest Greek island, Crete is positioned between Europe, Asia and Africa, therefore being subject to political, cultural and conflicting attitudes. It has been repeatedly invaded and periodically conquered, diminishing some ways of life and adding others. The Minoan Civilization is strongly perceptible in ruins and records. King Minos’ Palace of Knossós is intriguing. A 1300 room palace, with a pressure water system, it existed thousands of years ago. Portions of it have been restored and it is worthy of several days of exploration. I suggest a visit first to the Archaeological Museum in Iraklion. It houses the most expansive, magnificent collection of Minoan art and cultural records anywhere.
You can briefly view everything in the museum in several hours; to my thinking, several days would be more like it. Why not acquire books and pamphlets for the museum and two major Minoan sites on Crete, digest the information, explore the museum, and then visit the excavations at Phaestos and Knossós? You can spend days absorbing these ruins. The museum covers 5,000 years of colorful history on Crete; take time to enjoy the exhibits. Knossós includes the Great Palace, The Little Palace, A Royal Villa, The House of the High Priest, The Caravan Seral and the Royal Temple Tomb-Sanctuary, and many other smaller excavations are ongoing. Phaistos is an extremely well maintained archaeological area. Just at Iraklion, it is easily accessible and a desirable destination for anyone interested in the history of the island.
Another museum worthy of at least a few hours is the Historical Museum in Iraklion, covering the early Christian era to current cultures; the museum of Natural History also is worthy of a few hours. Iraklion, the home of these museums, is the biggest city in Crete and the main port of entry. A modern airport and a competent seaport ensure ease of entry onto the island. Lodging is easily available for any budget, tourist agencies abound and the island inhabitants are warm and friendly. You can rent a car, a driver, a boat, a motorbike, hiking equipment, caving equipment, fishing equipment or just about anything you can think of.
There are plenty of ATM machines, credit cards and travelers checks are widely accepted, electric current is 220V (North American appliances require a transformer and British ones need an adaptor); currency is the Euro, Internet cafes flourish, even in small villages – the usual rate is about 1.5 euros an hour; English is widely spoken; raki is the local drink (sometimes called tsikoudia, it is to Crete what ouzo is to the rest of Greece).
Should you need a toilet in a restaurant or a cafe, look for the WC sign. Inside the toilet you will notice a waste basket or bin. This is where you should throw the toilet paper because the delicate Greek waste pipes will get blocked if you throw the toilet paper in the toilet bowl; drinking tap water is not recommended so stick with bottled water, readily available. Driving is on the right, as in the United States. You must be 21 to rent a car and must possess an International Driver’s License. Crete is a big island and renting a car may be your best bet. Gasoline is available usually at least in one station, 24 hours a day, in most towns.
Available outdoor activities include diving, fishing, and hiking, 4X4 Jeep tours, canyoning, caving, rock climbing, horseback riding, cultural walks, mountain biking, outdoor games, rappelling, river trekking and even yoga. White sandy beaches, crystal-clear blue waters, five-star accommodations to primitive camping are available. For full information on these and more, have a look: http://www.explorecrete.com Shopping is interesting and abundant; you can even print out coupons from this web site to lessen your financial burden. Folk art, textiles, pottery, leather goods are plentiful; buy some fresh vegetables, mostly organic and pesticide free on this island. The honey here has a different flavor, it is clean and pure. I was told that pesticides are just not used anywhere on the island.
Exantas Restaurant is located on the north coastal road of Crete, between Panormo and Bali, at the 25th km marker of the new national road. The views are pleasing of the mountains and valley; this "taverna" is known for its tasty food and ambiance. The wine selection is excellent with their own production, and the owners operate on an ecological basis, using solar energy and natural soils to produce much of what is served in their restaurant. They produce their own milk, vegetables, oil, meat and honey. They use no pesticides and are truly a "natural food" taverna. A signature sound in Crete is a herd of sheep or goats heading out to pasture; listen, you’ll hear it here.
Mrs. Kristalia Psoma, of the Exantas Restaurant, shares her recipe for a house specialty, Marathopita (Fennel) Pie:
Ingredients: 3 bunches fennel, "some" wild horta (greens) or spinach, 2 shot glasses of olive oil, 1/2 kilo (about a pound) of all purpose flour, plus 2 tablespoons; 1 shot glass of raki and salt and pepper to taste.
Preparation: Make pie dough: Mix ½ kilo (1 lb.) all purpose flour with raki, 1 shot glass olive oil, ¼ teaspoon salt and some lukewarm water until dough is ready.
Filling: Wash greens and drain well. Then chop and toss lightly with salt, pepper, 1 teaspoon oil and 2 tablespoons flour. Separate dough into small round pieces the size of tennis balls. Make a small cavity in the middle of each and add a tablespoon of filling. Enclose the filling and work into balls again. With a floured rolling pin, press each ball into a thin round, the size of a small plate. Brush each side with olive oil and cook in a stick-free frying pan over very low heat for several minutes on each side until golden brown. NOTE: In years past, housewives would cook them on a stone or sheet-iron over a wood fire, and accompanying wine was a must."
For a special discount on a meal at Exantas Restaurant, go to www.exadas-crete.comand print out your coupon.
The Arkadiou Monastery between Rethymnon and Iraklion is a 5th century holy site that became a symbol of Cretan resistance in November 1866 when hundreds of refugees and revolutionaries chose death over surrender to the Turks. They blew themselves to pieces with the gunpowder that was being stored there by the Cretan Revolutionaries. The monastery was rebuilt and is well worth a visit.
The Holy Monastery of Preveli is south of Prefecture of Rethymnon and it is the most sacred part of the Holy Diocese of Lambis and Sfakion. The monastery consists of two main building complexes, the Lower (Kato) Monastery of Saint John the Baptist and the Rear (Pisso) Monastery of Saint John the Theologian which is in operation today. The icons here span a period from the first half of the 17th to the end of 19th centuries and there are a considerable number of vestments and other relics. This very active monastery is worth going to see.
The beaches are, of course, wonderful. There are nude beaches and if you are interested in knowing where they are, a comprehensive list can be had at gogreece.about.comWhether you go nude or don a bathing suit, you’ll want to spend some time soaking up the beautiful sunshine and splashing in the clear waters before you rest for all the night life you want…or none at all. It’s all here; you have but to pick and choose. This island offers mountains, valleys, deep gorges with rocky coasts, vast sandy beaches and pebble shorelines. Villages are awash in whitewash against various shades of green; ruins, monasteries, old castles and simple homes dot the landscape. The air is clean, warm and inviting. Sheep, goats, cattle and other animals enjoy their idyllic life. People do too. I hope your time in Crete is as splendid as mine was.