Ready to time travel?  Imagine yourself strolling down the columned streets of a city that pre-dates Christianity. You can actually walk through a city that was ancient during the life of Christ. From the lush Greek Isle of Samos you can ferry across the starling blue Aegean Sea to the port of Kusadasi in Turkey, [...]

Tomorrow we’ll take in Topkapi’s jewel-encrusted armor, jewel-encrusted thrones, jewel-encrusted teacups, jewel-encrusted jewels. (Much as we pretend we’re not tourists, we are.) For now it’s the Blue Mosque. If there’s any escape from Istanbul’s clamor that should be it, the only sounds stockinged feet on worn prayer rugs and, if we’re lucky, muezzim and congregants [...]

Istanbul is a noisy city, and nowhere is it noisier than on its docks. Our hotel, the Hayim, is a short block from the harbor. After breakfast we’re drawn there by a ship’s shrill whistle, each blast a romantic flashback to some sea-going novel of our youth. On the pier we’re swept along by armies [...]

Havuzlu Lokantasi is in the depths of Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar.
The first impression is of space. Ceilings are eight or ten meters high, the walls white washed, but graying now perhaps a little grimy. The room is uncluttered with plenty of room to wander around the tables. The atmosphere is timeless. You cannot help but [...]